The spring/summer 2023 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week has come to an end and is putting the spotlight on the best designers from the Nordic fashion scene. The event brought together some of the region’s hottest commercials, as well as up-and-coming names to keep on our radar.
Our favorites this season at CPHFW included ROTATE, who staged a disco party themed collection, as well as GANNI with a multi-collaboration runway. (di)vision delivered a series inspired by the effects of war, while Holzweiler presented dreamy yet technical designs using details taken from parachutes and workwear. Stine Goya was all about exploring contrasts with a strong yet soft collection, and Wood Wood assembled a runway that celebrates artistic communities.
Keep scrolling to read about our favorite shows and runway trends spotted at CPHFW SS23.
Baum und Pferdgarten closed the street in Vognmagergade to showcase its SS23 collection. Bright pink stripes covered the runway as the models went down in looks and explored the concept of time. The label revisited some of the most iconic pieces in its 23-year history, bringing details such as floral prints, oversized silhouettes, pinstripes and its own monogram to the scene. Pinstriped pieces were layered on top of each other, while prints were found on sheer organza items with the runway transitioning from blue and black tones to green, peach and tangerine tones. In addition to colorful garments, the brand teased an upcoming capsule collection of watches and accessories made by Danish watchmaker Skagen.
Closing the first day of CPHFW, Simon and Nanna Wick from (di)vision invited attendees to an outdoor space surrounded by nature. The venue was decorated with mushroom-shaped lamps and Instagram-ready sofas courtesy of GUBI. Takes inspiration from Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 film apocalypse nowThe SS23 collection took military references to express the effects of war. Made with surplus military gear, fits included a lace-up mini dress and loose knit dresses, as well as patched denim pieces in the form of skirts, dresses, jackets and more. GUBI’s mushroom-shaped lights also functioned as accessories, carried in bags or attached to belts.
Ditte Reffstrup brought positive, happy energy to the GANNI track, which was covered in chalk art and bike ramps. The show, called “JOYRIDE”, opened with BMX rider Malene Kejlstrup Sørensen speeding down the stage, followed by a collection filled with collaborations. Looks included denim designed in collaboration with Levi’s, outerwear made by 66North and Barbour-branded jackets. In addition to the collaborations, GANNI debuted an innovative T-shirt made with Infinna, which uses fiber woven from textile waste.
Reffstrup spoke about the collection: “My best ideas come to me in the morning. I put on my headphones, turn the music up super loud, get on my bike and ride to work. Those 15 minutes are all mine to cherish. My mind is open and my mind just flows. This collection is really about that feeling.” She added that the SS23 show was about celebrating the summer energy in Copenhagen.
Guests entered an indoor space decorated with large floating balloons made from deadstock parachutes, which served as the main inspiration for Holzweiler’s SS23 collection. Titled “In Motion,” the collection featured ruched dresses accented with rings and ripstop cords that contrasted the dreamy floral prints. The cords, which were transformed into a range of accessories such as belts, suspenders and backpack straps, accompanied women’s and men’s pieces dressed mostly in pastel tones, including desert dust, travertine, cerulean, coriander and malachite. The look was completed with headgear such as pilot hats crocheted with long tassels, made in collaboration with milliner Noel Stewart.
ROTATE closed the final day of CPHFW at the Bella Arena, where the models walked under disco balls. Through their latest collection, the brand’s creative directors Thora Valdimarsdottir and Jeanette Madsen expressed the power of unbreakable bonds, presenting an energetic, upbeat show with recurring hip-hop tunes in the background. Channeling the label’s signature high-glam aesthetic, looks feature neon sequins and foil prints, as well as crystal embellishments. Standouts include the fiery Theresa Dress, which simultaneously launched as an augmented reality (AR) experience and an NFT, which marked ROTATE’s foray into Web3. After the entire collection, all the models changed into shiny bold red looks to celebrate the finale of the show, dancing on stage during the disco balls as CPHFW drew to a close.
Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks continue to take Saks Potts in a new direction, moving away from using materials like fur, which was used for the label’s signature coat from 2014. Potts said in an interview with Hypebae that the SS23 collection takes inspiration from Crown Princess Mary of Denmark – especially “the time she came from Australia to Denmark in the early 2000s, lived an almost ordinary life in Copenhagen, casually walking the streets in her stylish appearance.”
To mark the brand’s biggest show to date, the presentation took place at Kongens Nytorv, where models and close friends such as Pernille Teisbaek and Erin Wasson walked in vibrant prints and colors with fringed accessories. With their SS23 presentation, the designer duo defined Nordic cool-girl style with oversized sequins, perforated skirts and more.
Entitled ‘Whisper Loud’, Stine Goya’s SS23 collection was soft and tender, yet strong and impactful with the use of bold colors and prints. Inspired by Riot Grrrl, an avant-garde movement led by feminist pioneers fighting against gender norms, the runway featured contrasting textures and silhouettes. “These women, these forces of nature of the Riot Grrrl movement, inspire me with so much joy and energy,” the designer said of the collection. “Their fierce, unapologetic attitude is what drives this collection. I want everyone who wears these pieces to be imbued with their power, confidence and sensuality.”
The space featured a series of sand structures that collapsed one by one throughout the show – referencing the breaking down of barriers – and served as the perfect backdrop for knitwear and mini skirts teamed with bomber jackets, as well as slip dresses worn with technical outerwear.
Wood Wood’s latest collection was, just like the title, an “Escape to Paradise”. The show was set on Lille Langebro, a curved pedestrian and bicycle bridge that runs through the center of Copenhagen. Scheduled just in time for the city’s sunset, the models walked down the bridge with shades of pastel pink and blue lighting up the sky.
This time, Wood Wood was inspired to celebrate artistic communities, just as Peggy Guggenheim did at the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in Venice to support some of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Looks featured workwear-style pieces like carpenter pants and painter’s shirts, with an emphasis on functionality on items like slanted floral designs, two-piece tracksuits and more.
This season marked the stage debut for Cecilie Liv Mortensen, who joins Wood Wood as head of design, creating the SS23 collection with the brand’s co-founder Brian SS Jensen. Mortensen shared in a press release: “For this season, we drew on a sense of community – a feeling that has underpinned Wood Wood’s vision since its inception. As head of design, I wanted to cultivate a sense of collaboration, where each designer could feed off each other’s energy. It is where we want to go in the next 20 years – with a focus on unity that translates into the pieces we make.”