Copenhagen Fashion Week’s new emerging designer incubator ‘CPHFW NewTalent’ supported by Circulose showcased its first three inaugural labels, A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and PLN during its Spring/Summer 2023 edition, which ran from 9 to 12 August.
Launched to support ‘the visionary talent in the Nordics’, the scheme provides the three new designer brands with financial support, mentorship, partnership offers and professional advisors, as well as a place on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week show schedule, and participation in the spring/summer ‘CPHFW NewTalent’ showroom.
New fashion during Copenhagen Fashion Week: PLN, A. Roege Hove and Latimmier
PLN ‘Collection II’
PLN founder and creative director Peter Lundvald Nielsen, who previously worked at Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger before starting his own clothing label in 2020, debuted on the catwalk at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a punk-infused Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
At the heart of PLN is the idea of challenging what Nielsen calls the “polished Danish fashion” scene with a dark but raw identity, influenced by European punk culture with references to workwear, goth and ancient religious attire. The label is also focused on ensuring it is responsible and sustainable, offering only well-considered silhouettes that are constructed with longevity in mind, with all pieces only offered as ‘made to order’ as it is ‘good for the environment’.
For Spring/Summer 2023, PLN presented ‘Collection II’, filled with striking silhouettes in deep textures such as oilskin canvas and reworked denim, with pieces featuring raw fades, frayed edges and fringes. The black, gray and earth-toned genderless collection made a statement on the catwalk with deconstructed jeans that looked like studded chaps, displayed alongside short leather skirts, hip corsets and open knits.
PLN also interpreted loungewear with hoodies with flowing fringes on the arms and hood and skirts made from deconstructed sweatshirts complete with floor-dragging arms and distressed sheer tops.
With comparisons already being made to American designer Rick Owens for his rebellious energy and deconstructed pieces, PLN is definitely a fashion label to watch in the coming seasons.
A. Roege Hove ‘Col. 8’
With stints with both Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan on her CV, designer Amalie Røge Hove is quickly becoming one of the hottest designers to watch for her sculptural knit brand A. Roege Hove. The brand, which presented its eighth collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week, already counts Browns, Ssense and Farfetch as stockists and has gained fans with her inclusive, clean, form-fitting and sustainable knitwear.
For spring/summer 2023 ‘Col. 8,” Hove revisited the earlier days of her career to rekindle her core obsession for knitwear and drew inspiration from the principle of iteration, details and techniques that repeat. The result is a collection of sensual separates and dresses made from her now signature crinkled cotton, with new colors such as lilac and apple green that create playful compositions in contrast to her usual monochrome palette of black, white and transparent.
Commenting on the collection, Hove said in the exhibition notes: “After a few seasons of moving forward, it felt natural to take a step back and look at my old work and procedures. I wanted to allow myself to create without purpose and take the time to immerse myself in the details and systematics of knitting, and in doing so further investigate the possibilities and extremes.”
Latimmier ‘Juvenile Expectations’
Founded by Finnish designer Ervin Latimer, educated at the prestigious Aalto University in Helsinki, Latimmier showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week a collection that continues its “masculinity is a performance” aesthetic, reworking traditional masculine style with a sensual twist .
The Spring/Summer 2023 ‘Juvenile Expectations’ collection takes inspiration from ‘Fucking Åmål’, a 1999 lesbian teen drama by Swedish director Lukas Moodysson and the feeling of being stuck somewhere and the feeling of wanting to break free from conservative, predetermined constraints.
This has translated into a collection filled with relaxed and tailored silhouettes focusing on the quintessential historical menswear staple, the button-down shirt, doubling down on the codes first showcased in the debut collection unveiled at Pitti Uomo 101 in January 2022.
The result is a modern and sensual update of masculine tailoring, with striped summer shirts and tailored suits with cut-out shoulder details and oversized fits, while loose-fitting jeans are cut to the thigh. The new designer also played with fabrics, with glossy oversized and relaxed jackets and trouser sets and leather trousers tied together with laces.
Latimmier also keeps sustainability at the forefront, adding several recycled materials to this collection, including 100 percent recycled cashmere, recycled leather and recycled Tencel. In total, 60 percent of the SS23 collection materials are recycled, recycled, certified organic or certified sustainable. Of the rest, the label states that less than 2 percent contain oil-based fibers that are not of recycled origin.